Dry plants in wet weather

Quite frankly, I am enjoying this cool weather. I don’t like the heat and I love to work out in the rain.

These sentiments, I realize, are not shared by many and certainly not by my gardens, if gardens can be attributed with any form of sentiment.

The best part of my beans, although pre-sprouted, rotted in the ground, annuals are turning to slime and the zucchinis act as if I’ve injected them with an anti-growth hormone. What to do, what to do?

There is something to be done. A few management techniques that serve to keep plants dryer and allow in more light, albeit, none that truly compensate for lack of sun.

Firstly, one should remove any weeds that come into contact with one’s plants and likewise pull away mulch from around them. Both weeds and mulch will trap moisture against the plant stems and foliage and over the root system, discouraging the movement of air, which serves to dry up moisture, encouraging the growth of mold, mildew and rot. If possible, thin plants, as well. In the vegetable garden, this will produce a dividend as the thinnings are edible.

Root crops can be thinned until the maturing roots barely touch, and the thinnings, often with foliage intact, are delicious steamed.

Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and other cole crops can be thinned by removing a round or two of the large outer leaves. These, too, are wonderful cooked. Boil them in just a little water and then toss them with a bit of fried bacon.

Annuals, herbs and even perennials, planted closely, are best thinned by the removal of entire plants, which can be relocated with more elbow room.

Not to worry. With the incessant rain and the cool temperature, not even a plant in full bloom will suffer from a transplant. Transplant beds should not be more than three or four inches deep, and can be dug to run between rows or around patches.

Ensure that any ditch slopes downhill toward a spot into which the excess water can drain, but not into the neighbor’s yard.

Containerized plantings must be especially watched for adequate drainage.

Make certain that all containers have drain holes, either in the bottom itself or around the sides just above the bottom. If it is not hanging, or attached to a wall or rail above ground level, set the container on blocks rather than directly onto rain-saturated ground.

Having done what one can, there is nothing left but to wait. One day the rain will g o away, the sun will shine, the gardens will smile, and I will stay indoors.

Hally Truelove is a Master Gardener who lives and gardens in Wasilla with her two daughters, a handful of cats, a bunch of bunnies, some guinea pigs, a dog and a frog. Contact her at 376-0909.