Finding the right rod

I purchased my first two fishing rods when I was in about the 2nd or 3rd grade. I remember both well. I bought a 7-foot 2-piece fiberglass Eagle Claw spinning rod brand new for $7 and a 6 weight 8-foot 2-piece fiberglass fly rod / reel combination for $10. Both of them were store bought new rods, and I had to save my money for a long time before I had enough for their purchase. I can remember going to the store with my Dad and he showed me how to shake a rod to get a feel for what the action and weight of the rod would be like. I shook both of these rods before purchasing, but honestly did not know what I was supposed to be feeling. Fortunately I was able to ask my Dad his option before purchase as well.

At that time we lived in eastern Washington and I used both rods primarily to catch rainbow trout, but also to catch panfish, catfish, carp, and to try for steelhead. Even then there were not many steelhead to be had in eastern Washington, and especially in the small streams where I did most of my fishing with either my one-year-older brother or on my own. On weekends Dad would often take us to more distant locations where the catching was often much better. Before the start of my 4th grade school year, our family moved to Alaska, at which point my trout / panfish rods became my salmon rods.

Looking back, those two lightweight rods may have hindered rather than helped me in my youthful pursuit of ocean-run salmon, but at the time I did not know any better, and I was totally smitten with the idea of catching large ocean-run salmon from both Kenai Peninsula and Mat-Su Valley streams. There were tens of thousands less people on the Kenai Peninsula, and in the Mat-Su Valley in the early 1970s, however, it still took more than a year before we got the hang of catching salmon on a regular basis. One of the challenges of catching salmon with both those light rods was getting a hook set well enough that it would penetrate past the barb and stay in place until the salmon was landed. It seemed we got more bites with smaller lures —- but just as likely the smaller hooks on those smaller lures simply penetrated past the bard easier than the larger hooks on larger lures we tried. Even so, I can remember briefly hooking only to lose considerable numbers of salmon. Classic too light of rod for the task.

Freshwater king salmon fishing opportunities were quite limited at that time and although Dad started taking the family camping and fishing over Memorial Day Weekend on the small streams between Clam Gulch and Homer, we did not even hook a salmon the first couple years. My Dad purchased a Lamiglass rod blank and built a salmon rod in our basement, and both he and my older brother each caught a king salmon on the Gulkana River in July on the Gulkana River.

The winter of my eighth grade year, I purchased a Lamiglass fiberglass blank and built a rod, at least partially in my school art class in Palmer. I had to get permission from my art teacher but I also got school credit for the project. Looking back, the rod built by an 8th grader, working mostly on his own, looked far from professional. I think my grade for the project may have been a “B” or “B-,” however, the next Memorial Day Weekend I harvested the first Kenai Peninsula king salmon of anyone in my family — on the rod I built specifically for that fishing task.

Since that time I’ve become more and more of a believer in the concept of using rods designed for specific purposes with blank action and power appropriate for specific line strengths, lure weights, and fish size. Sure many previous salmon catches on my trout / panfish rods showed what could be accomplished with rods marginally-suited for catching large ocean-run fish, but a rods specifically designed for what I was attempting to accomplish make the adventures more enjoyable, easier to accomplish, and provide a sense of pride in rods I’ve both built and purchased.

Additional Fishing Rod Considerations

I also consider overall rod length, handle length, rod weight in ounces, style, size, and number of guides, reel seat design /comfort, blank and wrap color(s), and rod sensitivity. Rod durability is another factor anglers should consider — there are many economically priced durable rods on the market —-that are often not light in weight or very sensitive, however anglers may want to select this option. There is no clear answer to these choices that would match every angler, but all other things being equal, any one of these choices could be the deciding factor for how much an angler enjoys using a specific rod. Merely looking at and feeling (shaking) a wide variety of the rods available may be helpful.

Putting It All Together

Having a custom rod built or building your own custom rod are ways to get all, or most, of the specific items you may be looking for in a fishing rod. Building your own may be a way to get a better built product that more closely matches a budget — and especially for anglers that may have more spare time than money . Anglers can find instructional videos through the https://www.mudhole.com website or Youtube videos. Rod building classes may also be taken from 3 Rivers Fly and Tackle in Wasilla 907-373-5434. Class attendees typically pay an instructional / tool use cost and also purchase the specific parts they will need to assemble their custom rod.

For anglers just getting into fishing — as I was so many years ago, purchasing a low cost factory rod may provide years of enjoyment. After which, an angler may, or may not choose to upgrade rods and other gear. Over the years I’ve talked with anglers who have made some incredible finds and purchases at thrift stores and garage sales — although waiting to find a specific type rod in one of these venues may take an inordinate amount of time when one could be fishing.

Good Luck and Fish On!

Andy Couch is a Mat-Su Valley angler and fishing guide who primarily targets ocean-run salmon during summer months.