HEADLAMP: Halibut Cove

Halibut Cove and nearby destinations in Kachemak Bay State Park are so popular that they have spawned their own lexicon. My favorite phrase is “going across the bay,” which can generally be used anywhere within 200 crow-fly miles of Homer to mean “going to the south side of Kachemak Bay,” notwithstanding the fact that Alaska’s coastline is longer than that of every other state’s combined, and that such a lengthy coastline should render absurd any suggestion of a single bay’s preeminence.

Yet Kachemak Bay in general, and Halibut Cove in particular, is such a singular destination that it can lead to traffic jams on the Seward Highway during holiday weekends. In a sense, this is a strange phenomenon: Halibut Cove itself is no more scenic, and is no better paddling, than Tutka Bay, or Sadie Cove, or the Yukon/Hesketh/Herring Islands.

However, the trails around Halibut Cove are unusual in the sense that they comprise a lengthy and integrated trail network, which is a rarity in this state. The most extensive trail network is between Grewingk Glacier, just to the north of Halibut Cove, and the China Poot area just to the south. There is a trail connecting them that runs along Halibut Cove lagoon, but it is fairly overgrown.

In contrast, many trails around the Grewingk are well-maintained. The fastest route to see the glacier starts at the north end of Halibut Cove, at the Saddle Trail. From here, it’s a couple hundred foot ascent up to a low ridge, which is the trail intersection for the Alpine Ridge trail. In summer, this route follows the ridgeline to the west of the Grewinck, providing unparalleled views of this area of the Kenai Mountains. Alternatively, it is only 1.5 miles over the low ridge to a lake at the glacier’s terminus. When contemplating the glacier, consider that half the lake was filled with ice in the 1970s. A spruce/alder line on the hillsides alongside the lake indicate the glacier’s recent presence, as does polished rock on a new peninsula that was covered with ice just a few decades ago.

To the south of Halibut Cove, a network of trails connects Halibut Cove Lagoon, China Poot Lake, and the Wosensenki River (colloquially, the “Woz”). There is an impressive public dock at the south end of Halibut Cove, near public use cabins and campgrounds, that provides access to this trail system.

The south end of Halibut Cove is one of several places to camp or glamp in the area. Both public use cabins (which fill up fast) and private cabins are available for rent, and the state maintains spectacular campsites. Be aware that Google is not aware of most rental cabins--call True North Kayak Adventures and some other local businesses to find out what’s available. Google is so bad at listing rentals across the bay that there are frequently openings on prime weekends, since people who aren’t familiar with local rentals have a hard time finding them. Of course, there are even more options for camping. Some are on beaches facing Kachemak Bay (a short hike from the Grewingk), while others are in the alpine above the glacier’s floodplain or on the beach at the glacier lake’s edge. Nearly all of these campsites are a short hike or paddle from other destinations, and are a short water taxi ride away. Mako’s and others offer affordable shuttles across the bay from the harbor near the end of the Homer spit.

As popular as it is, Halibut Cove and its adjacent trail systems don’t generally feel crowded. Kachemak Bay has a broad horizon, and people seem as minute as we really are amidst the glaciers, lagoons, fjords, and forests of this remarkable state park.