I LOVE NY

It's a survivor. It's a symbol of America's spirit. But more than anything, Manhattan is still Manhattan.

No doubt the heart of New York City has been changed by the terrorist attacks of Sept. 11, which claimed the lives of thousands and destroyed the World Trade Center Twin Towers. The gaping hole in the skyline is a constant reminder of the tragedy to those who live there.

Locals will often volunteer information about their own experiences -- one taxicab driver told of coming into the city just as the second tower fell.

But the tragedy has also, perhaps, shed light on the softer side of New Yorkers. While visitors can still expect the honking horns and hurried pace that the city is known for, many may be surprised by the helpfulness and genuine friendliness many New Yorkers will demonstrate toward visitors. American flags flap from skyscrapers, street banners thank police and firefighters, and those commuting to their morning jobs are often more than happy to tell a visitor how to find the Empire State Building or Ground Zero.

Even as the hole in the city where the World Trade Center attacks occurred continues to be a work site, with heavy equipment, firefighters, police and construction workers, it has also become a memorial where Americans come to grieve and find strength.

About three months after the terrorist attacks, New York City opened a public viewing platform at Fulton and Church streets to accommodate the hundreds of visitors to the site each day. Access to the platform, which allows a view into what is now a large pit, is free but limited. Tickets must be obtained from a booth several blocks away, and the site is open daily from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

While the platform has been controversial, with some fearing it would turn the tragedy into a visitor attraction, Americans appear to have instead used it as an opportunity to pay their respects. Street sides near the site have been turned into large memorials, where people leave photographs, T-shirts, flowers and other mementos. A sign from the Fraternal Order of Eagles in Valdez, Alaska, reads, "United We Stand," and "In loving memory."

While Sept. 11 still dominates the thoughts of residents and visitors alike in Manhattan, the city continues to thrive at its own pace. The lights on Broadway are as bright as ever, advertising shows such as "The Full Monty," "The Lion King," and "Mamma Mia." Street musicians and artists stand ready to entertain. Not far away, Chinatown bustles with activity as marketers sell fresh squid, fish and exotic herbs.

From uptown to downtown, visitors will find more to do and see then they'll ever have time for. There is the Metropolitan Museum of Art, with its vast collections of more than 2 million works of art, from Egyptian sculptures to Picasso paintings, Rembrandt to Monet. Other art and history galleries and museums abound throughout Manhattan.

Visits to the Statue of Liberty, the Empire State Building, Central Park, Times Square, the jewelry district, the Rockefeller Center, Radio City Music Hall and the NBC studios are among the countless opportunities.

For those who enjoy fine food and great shopping, Manhattan is a smorgasbord. Choose from Irish pubs and fine Indian cuisine; choose from Saks Fifth Avenue or small, select boutiques.

Whether it is for the sake of yesterday's history, the history being made today, or simply all the fun that can be had, Manhattan is a must see.