PEDAL POWER

PALMER — For cyclists who’ve mothballed their Schwinns all winter, a few quick tips will get them back up to speed pedaling faster and longer.

As more riders hit the trails, more bicycles break down. The number of flat tires, bent rims and broken chains coming into Backcountry Bike Shop swells this time of year, owner Tony Berberich said. While he happily repairs all rides, most of the problems he sees could have been avoided with simple maintenance performed at home.

Backcountry Bikes is offering two classes to teach general care and upkeep, but Berberich offered a preview of the curriculum on a visit to his shop in Palmer. Much of the work he describes requires the back tire to be off the ground, and the best way to do this without investing in a mechanic’s stand is by resting the top tube on a two-by-four nailed to a work bench.

First, he said, check the break pads. Looking down from the top, each pad should have a wear line. Pads need to be replaced as they are worn close to this line. A worn out pad can tear up a set of rims in just one ride, said Berberich.

Just because the tires felt inflated at the end of the last ride does not mean they are now. Bike tubes are not designed to hold air indefinitely and will eventually leak. Most of the flats Berberich sees are impact flats, also called snake bites. The tire is too soft, and the tube is pinched between the ground and the rim when the rider hits a bump. Check pressure before each outing and inflate the tire with five pounds of pressure after each ride. A properly inflated tube should last a very long time, Berberich said.

The chain is the only part of a bike that needs regular oiling. Any chain that makes a noise is too dry, and a dry chain makes shifting a chore and can lead to permanent damage. Never use WD-40. The “WD” stands for water displacement, and all it will do is strip the chain of any water, Berberich said. Investing in bicycle-specific cleaner and oil is well worth it, and both are available at any bike shop.

Most bikes he sees are over-oiled, and excess oil can attract dirt that will gum up gears. To begin, squeeze chain cleaner onto the chain as you crank the pedals backwards with your other hand. Make sure the chain makes a few complete rotations. Then, hold a rag over the chain while cranking forwards. This will clean the chain of any dirt and excess lubrication. Next, repeat the process with the oil. Spin the pedals backwards again while applying the oil, then crank forwards while holding a rag to the chain.

Before or after each ride, clean the bike of dirt. Wipe the components down with a rag to keep gunk away from the gears. Check the frame for any cracks or aluminum fatigues at the stress points. Pressure washers can force water into the components, so it is best to rinse the bike with buckets of water.

Keeping the bike clean, the chain lubed and the tires pumped will avoid most of the trips to the shop, Berberich said. However, when bikes do require adjustments to the more complicated systems, it is best to take it to a mechanic. Chains become stretched out after 500 to 750 miles, and bike shops have a tool to test for stretching. Cables should last five to 10 years provided bikes are stored dry and inside, but Berberich has seen countless do-it-yourself replacements gone wrong. Changes to the front or rear derailleurs can cause chains to be thrown off gears when shifting, so it’s best to leave that to professionals.

No matter how good condition a bike is in, stuff will always happen on the trail. Being prepared with the right knowledge and tools can avoid the long walk home.

Always carry spare tubes, two tire levers and some sort of pump. In case of a flat, remove the wheel and insert one lever in between the tire and the rim. Pry the tire outside of the rim, and work the second lever around the rim to get one side completely out. Repeat the process on the other side. Check the inside of the tire for anything that could puncture the new tube. Patch any hole with a patch kit or folded up dollar bill. Partially inflate the new tube and put it in the tire. Check for a directional arrow on the tire, put the valve in and work the sides into the rim with the tire levers. Inflate the tire and check to make sure both sides are sitting inside the tube properly.

A multi-tool made for bikes can prove invaluable for trailside maintenance. A good tool will include an assortment of wretches and a chain breaker.

If a chain does break, find the next link on the broken side that will fit with the link on the clean side. Use the chain breaker to push the pin out just far enough to remove the broken section. Slide the end of the clean side into the newly exposed link and push the pin back into place. If the new chain is stiff, push sideways on the link until it can bend smoothly. The new chain will be shorter, so do not use the higher gears.

For riders just getting back on their bikes, Berberich offers some advice. Don’t ride with the front and back gears in the opposite extremes. This puts horizontal force on the chain making it much more likely to break. Use a gear that doesn’t require a great amount of effort. Muscles don’t recover as fast as the cardiovascular system, and legs can be trained to spin faster. Cadence for a flat ride should be 18 to 20 rotations per 15 seconds, or about 80 per minute.

But again, Berberich will go over all of this, as well as hands-on demonstrations of the maintenance techniques, at two clinics his shop is offering. The first is June 8 from 7:30 to 8:30 p.m. and is for women only. The second is at the same time on June 15 and is open to everyone. Both classes are free of charge and held at the Backcountry Bike Shop in Palmer.

Contact Todd L. Disher at todd.disher@frontiersman.com or 352-2252.