Rock jocks

HATCHER PASS — Next time you’re hanging by broken fingernails and the last centimeter of toe rubber to the underside of the huge granite overhang known as Terrorvision, thank Kelsey Gray.

Gray is the author of the newly released “Alaska Rock Climbing Guide,” an ambitious compilation of 400 climbing routes around the state. With a handshake that marked him as a rock crusher, it’s clear the project was a labor of love.

“We were standing around the Anchorage Rock Gym, and people were always saying they wish they had a guide,” Gray said. “One time, I said maybe I’ll write one. From there, it got to the point where I had to. Everyone was expecting it.”

Gray started working on the book in May 2008. He claims to have climbed 330 of the 400 routes listed in his book, taking notes and counting bolts.

“I went to all the areas I could and climbed every route I could,” he said. “From there, it was just a matter of scrambling lots of sheets of paper I had notes on and the information from the people I talked to.”

The closest area with exposed granite to the population centers, Hatcher Pass has the predominate place in the book. There are a number of rock formations with dozens of routes detailed in the area.

Each description includes the number of bolts, the types of anchors and what gear is required. There are also directions to and pictures of the formations, how long the approach is and what time the rock gets sun.

“There is good climbing in Hatcher Pass if you can get it in the sun,” Gray said. “But as you know, it rains most of the year there.”

Gray recommends the Toto Buttress for a good number of routes of varying difficulties. He also said climbing in Hatcher Pass requires a full rack of cams, stoppers and slings. It’s a place that requires more knowledge, and it’s best to go with someone who knows what he or she is doing.

Gray said the Puriton Creek or Tram Rock areas might be better for beginners. His favorite is Ravine Lake, but the Terrorvision route at the Lost Wall in Hatcher Pass is the scariest route in the book. With climbing experience in a dozen countries and 25 states, Gray is well qualified to say what’s scary — and to write a book about it. He said Alaska climbing still has a long way to go to catch up with the Lower 48. Part of the problem, he said, is people in the gym do not realize the great outdoor climbing opportunities here.

“I sure hope this book will help change that,” Gray said.

The 2,500 copies of the first edition were delivered April 25. He did all the work on the book himself with only minor editing by a few friends.

“Now, I have 2,500 editors,” Gray said.

He welcomes suggestions for changes and additions, and with the amount of e-mails he has already received, Gray is already planning a second edition. For more information and up-to-date revisions, visit www.alaskarockclimbing.com.

Contact Todd L. Disher at todd.disher@frontiersman.com or 352-2252.