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It feels like fall out there!
Trees are changing, rose hips are ripe and, yikes, it’s cool in the morning. I had to wear a sweater and driving gloves this morning on the way to town.
So what does a weary gardener do this time of year? Watch the leaves fall and hide behind the teapot? Maybe go to Hawaii until the snow falls?
For me, hiding is not the answer. I love this weather! Hawaii will have to wait.
After sweating the summer out, this time of year is nothing short of bliss, and fall is a fabulous time for transplanting trees and shrubs, providing they already have an independent root system. This includes container-grown plants or those dug from the ground with a substantial root system still intact.
If you’re digging up and moving trees or shrubs, and the roots are going to be seriously manhandled, proceed only after they are fully dormant.
I’ve preached fall planting for years, yet most people prefer spring. So I’ll preach it again.
September and October have advantages for planting. Leaf and top growth have stopped, but roots continue to grow even when soil temperatures are very low. This allows root systems to become established before our most severe winter temperatures arrive. Next year, with their root systems having a head start, shrubs can use the energy of spring to concentrate on becoming beautiful additions to your yard.
Another consideration for fall planting is placement.
Fact is, when it’s hot the difference between sun and shade is obvious. Now, with cooler weather, we more easily overlook shade — it just all feels cool.
So be careful not to be fooled by temperatures. The same false impressions can be true for dry versus wet conditions, or windy versus sheltered. Fall is typically not our windiest time of year, nor are we as aware of ground moisture as we are when the sun is cooking us from overhead.
These few practical tips for planting should make your garden smile in the spring.
1. When you dig the hole, make it no deeper than you need it, but several inches wider than the spread of the roots. This gives them free reign to grow. The bottom of the hole should be a mound shape, as roots tend to grow in an upside down vase shape. Get as much of the pot-soil out of the roots as you can. Often planting mixes contain sawdust or other amendments that encourage fast root growth but tend to draw moisture from the roots once placed in the ground. Don’t be afraid to really work the roots. It will shock them into immediate growth, which is exactly what you’re looking for.
2. Always plant a shrub or tree deep enough, up to an inch and a half above the graft if it is a grafted fruit tree or specialty shrub, and the same above the top of the root system if it is a non-grafted, large tree or shrub. If it is a baby, place the soil about a half inch above the top of the root system.
3. While it is OK to amend a planting area for perennials if you are creating a special growth niche, do not use soil amendments when planting trees and shrubs. You want to plant in the same soil the tree or shrub will ultimately be growing in. Place a little 8-32-16 fertilizer in the bottom of the hole. It will break down over the winter and be ready to feed roots in the spring. Place the fertilizer, then sprinkle a little earth over it. If the fertilizer comes in direct contact with the roots they can be burned or killed. Make sure there are no air pockets in the planting hole. Roots do not grow in air.
4. Finally, water the newly planted additions thoroughly. This will not only feed the plant, but also help settle soil and eliminate air pockets. While plants going into dormancy use less water than during the height of the growing season, watering is just as important this time of year. The ground should remain moist, not drenched and not dry. If rains sog the soil there is little you can do, otherwise you’re in control! Use common sense and remember — more roots rot from too much moisture than fail from drought.
Plant, plant, plant!
Knock yourself out.
When spring comes, you’ll be glad you did.
Sally Koppenberg is a garden and food designer and the owner of Stonehill Gardens, a nursery and nature conservatory specializing in Alaska grown trees, shrubs, perennials and native plants.