South American first to solo summit Denali this season

PePe Jijon of Ecuador was the first solo climber to summit Denali this season, and he thinks he may be the first South American to ever summit Denali via the Messner Coulior route.

Jijon arrived at Denali's base camp on May 12. Stuck at the 14,200-foot-level park service camp for five days, waiting for weather to improve, Jijon reached the summit on May 20. He returned to Talkeetna on May 25, sporting a quarter-sized spot of frostbite on his nose.

Jijon, who works as a climbing guide, said Denali was not a climb for beginners.

"Denali has taught me more than any climbing experience I've had," Jijon said. "From logistics, to route finding, to waiting on winter storms, all the wind and the ice -- it was very challenging."

Missy Smothers, lead visitor use assistant at Denali National Park and Preserve's Talkeetna Ranger Station, confirmed Thursday that Jijon was the first solo climber to summit the mountain this season. As far as Jijon being the first South American solo climber to ever summit Denali via the Messner Coulior route, Smothers said it's more difficult to answer, but he may be the first successful solo climber from Ecuador, at least.

The park service has computerized records dating back only to 1995. From that data, Smothers said, "Jijon appears to be the first climber from South America to solo and summit via the Messner Coulior."

Smothers said the same records show a climber from Brazil made a solo Mt. McKinley trip via the West Buttress Route -- and summited -- in 1997.

"It is always possible that someone from South America did summit via the Messner before 1995," Smothers added.

Jijon's recent Denali summit is just one leg of a year-long adventure for the 29-year-old, as he attempts to climb the seven highest mountains of seven different continents. In addition to Denali, the other six peaks are Kilimanjaro, in Africa; Elbrus, in Europe; Carstensz, in Oceania; Vinson, in Antarctica; Aconcagua, in South America; and the tallest peak of Asia -- and the world -- Mt. Everest.

Jijon is receiving support for his "seven solo summits on seven continents" climb through numerous sponsors, including Mobil Oil and American Airlines. Jijon laughed as he recounted carrying 15 little flags up the mountain in his gear -- one from each sponsor -- then posing, with a big grin, with each of the different flags for a photograph at the summit. A little tough to do when you are climbing alone, he said.

Jijon has been on his climbing expedition since September 2003, and has made successful summits on five of the seven peaks. After returning to South America to guide for a short climbing season, Jijon will head to the South Pole to climb Vinson Massif. He said he plans to end his quest with a solo Mt. Everest summit in 2006.