Local chef leaving post after three years

A popular Wasilla restaurant is facing a major crossroads.

After nearly three years of leading the kitchen at The Grape Tap, Chef Gretchen Hopping is moving on to develop her rapidly growing side business in catering and charcuterie.

Hopping has served as executive chef at the eatery since late summer 2022, when the industry, and the community, were emerging into the new post-pandemic world that brought no shortage of challenges to local businesses, especially restaurants.

She took over a kitchen that was reeling from mismanagement and deteriorated standards from what she called the common restaurant malady of “toxic culture”.

“I knew it was going to be tough because of the culture in the kitchen. There was an element of nonprofessionalism there,” Hopping said. “My job was to make that kitchen more professional, where people are kinder to each other.”

By any measure, her tenure has been a success. Under the influence of Hopping’s cool demeanor and team approach to her job, the kitchen became a less tense and more efficient operation.

Food quality and consistency improved. Popular special events, like monthly wine dinners and “dinner in the dark,” kept customers flowing and happy. And staff responded accordingly. At a time when restaurants nationwide were struggling to hire and retain workers, after Covid, stability and harmony settled in at The Grape Tap. “There’s no yelling in my kitchen. This is the most calm that kitchen has ever been,” Hopping said. “I wanted people to be happy when they came to work. I feel like I succeeded in that.”

Her pride in that accomplishment spills over into questions about what’s next for the restaurant.

“I want my replacement to be kind but firm,” she said. “I want to leave my team with someone who cares for them as much as I do. You become their family. It makes it a much more pleasant place to work.”

Perhaps no one agrees more than Grape Tap owner Kristin Cook. She and her husband, Casey, bought the restaurant 10 years ago. But she has worked there since day one, when The Grape Tap opened its doors for the first time in 2009.

Cook worked then as a server and bartender, helping put the new restaurant on area foodies’ radar. So she’s seen more than a few staffers come and go.

“Gretchen’s impact on The Grape Tap has been remarkable,” Cook said. “She has this great ability to build relationships with her crew. We’ve had less back-of-the-house turnover in the past two years than ever.”

Cook added that despite the challenges that come with replacing someone of Hopping’s caliber, staff have been supportive. Few were surprised by her decision to leave, since they have watched her personal business grow.

“I’m very excited for her, but sad for us,” Cook said. “I have always tried to encourage my crew who have outside ambitions. I’m hoping we can find someone that has the same passion for her crew and for The Grape Tap.”

The admiration is mutual. Hopping said it was difficult to tell Cook she had decided to leave.

“I teared up when I told her,” she said. “Kristin is a really great boss, but we are also friends. We collaborate and talk things out. It’s not like a boss-employee relationship.

“I will miss the camaraderie. I will for sure miss the people. We are a family.”

Hopping said those feelings are best summed up by the often frenzied New Year’s Eve shifts, and the good times that follow.

“It’s super fast-paced, and we all work so dang hard,” she said. “Then, at the end of the night, we go out back, have a fire, hug, and thank each other for all the hard work.” No specific departure date is planned yet. Hopping is sticking around to help with the hiring and training of the new chef and figures she’ll be at The Grape Tap until at least late October, when her formerly side hustle – BellaBites Gourmet Grazing and Catering – kicks into high gear for the holiday season.

She said moving on brings more than just excitement for what’s next.

“There’s no growth if there’s not fear,” she said. “But I’m a strong believer in taking chances. In doing that, you grow, learn, and progress. Staying in your comfort zone can be boring.”