Area restaurants changing with the season

The Greek philosopher Heraclitus observed 2,500 years ago that “there is nothing permanent except change.” In the world of commerce, that is likely most evident in the restaurant business.

Here in the Mat-Su a wave of change is currently under way, as at least three local eateries are in the process of carving out their next chapters. Most recently, Nonna’s Osteria in Wasilla announced that head chef and founder Marian Romano, who opened the restaurant four years ago, is stepping away from her full-time-plus role at the popular Italian establishment.

In a Facebook post last week, Romano wrote “to everything there is a season. A time for everything under Heaven. A time for work and a time to rest. It is time to rest.” Romano wrote the post from Italy, where she was touring with Mallory Laury, Nonna’s dining room veteran who will be transitioning into the lead role at the restaurant. The purpose of the trip was more than vacation fun. Romano, whose passion for Italian cuisine inspired her to seek out authentic ingredients and techniques, was introducing Laury to her vendors in Italy and setting her up in the same culinary program Romano attended.

“My job in the next 10 days is to immerse her in Italian food culture,” Romano wrote. “The secret ingredient to this trip is to understand why we spend so much money on our ingredients and so many diverse vendors all over the country in order to bring you the authentic flavors of Italy from its 20 provinces.”

Nonna’s Osteria has been a labor of love for Romano. When most people are planning for retirement, she had a different path in mind. After a long stint working for the Mat-Su Borough, Romano opened her restaurant in the spring of 2022.

“These past 13 years of working, planning, saving, and studying in order to make Nonna's Osteria a reality have brought tears and fears, joys and happiness,” Romano posted in her Facebook announcement. “There is nothing more powerful than seeing people enjoy good food that is as clean and as authentic as we can make it. It is everything I hoped and prayed for, and beyond.”

But on the cusp of turning 75, Romano said the time is right for her to step back from the business.

“It is too much for this one person, leaving me little time or energy for the joys of friends, family, seeing the grands and greatgrands, and no time at all for travel,” she wrote. “I know it is time to pass the torch, and one of our very own longtime staff is the person who wants to carry on, just as we do it now.”

Romano went on to praise Laury’s skills and commitment.

“She brings much kitchen experience, business experience and heart – so much heart – to this transfer,” Romano added. “I'm excited to continue being part of Nonna's through this next chapter, doing the things I love to support Mallory and our amazing team."

Feather and Flour

The announcement in April from restaurant owners Heather Greenwood and Luke Hyce that the trendy Palmer restaurant would be closing its doors shook the Valley cuisine scene. For more than two years, Feather and Flour had built its reputation and sizable following on fresh, creative dishes sourced from local ingredients.

Its popular brunches were often the toughest ticket in town. But the relatively tiny space – seating for three dozen people – made it difficult to keep the business afloat.

News of the impending closure was met with a groundswell of public support. Remaining service days were quickly booked full, as devotees sought a final dining experience from Feather and Flour.

So great was the response that late last month the restaurant announced on its Facebook that it would remain open at least until the fall.

“While we continue to work through the process of planning our futures, we are excited to announce that we’ll have continued services (in some way or another) through the summer,” the post stated.

Beginning June 10, Feather and Flour will reprise its Slow Day Café for a second summer season. Introduced last year, the weekday service offers a departure from the usual formalities of dinner dining.

Geared toward walk-in customers, the format is for no reservations and a more casual approach to dining. Hours will be 9:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Tuesday through Friday. The menu will include crowd favorites like biscuits and gravy.

“Order food for here or to go, chat with friends, get work done, sip a mimosa, play games, and enjoy this space we all love while the sun shines,” the latest announcement read. “We’re still working through what the future looks like, but we’re excited to see more of your faces in a more casual, sunny atmosphere.”

Triple A’s Soul Food

Back in Wasilla, one restaurant has seen more change than most in recent months. Triple A’s, the one-time catering operation with the drive-up booth at the corner of Spruce and Lucille, scaled up in October by relocating into an existing dine-in space at 321 W. Parks Hwy., near where Larson’s Pizza and King’s Asian Buffet formerly set up shop.

This week, the unique restaurant took another giant step forward with the introduction of a new, larger menu showcasing the same commitment to its southern style, home-cooked food. Many of the menu items that customers love remain.

Breakfast staples like chicken and waffle, and biscuits and country gravy, take their place alongside lunch/dinner options like Cajun pasta, and the fried chicken and fried catfish plates. There’s also an array of appetizers, like fried pickle chips, fried cauliflower, and Triple A’s signature Polar wings, which feature breaded and crisp-fried chicken dusted with a house-made dry ranch and powdered sugar mix.

Former specials have transitioned to the regular menu, and larger, family-size portions are now offered. Weekly and nightly specials, like the popular pot roast, oxtail curry, and smoked stuffed turkey leg will continue to be offered as well.

“We are so happy to be part of something great here in Alaska and to be able to feed you all,” owner and chef Symone Stewart posted on the restaurant’s Facebook. “We are excited about our new family meals and more.”

Triple A’s opens at 7 a.m. Wednesday through Sunday, and is open til midnight on Friday and Saturday nights.